Jhumpa Lahiri���s Mrs.Sen, in her story of the same name, is the first kind, slowly going to pieces in the loneliness of America, cooking inappropriately elaborate meals for which she goes to great lengths to get the right spices and fish, but nothing really works. The next day, the women would have a cooked meal ready.Today the exiles from India are Indians themselves, of two kinds ��� the first generation, for whom the longing for the taste of home is sharp, and the second (and now third, as well) generation, for whom it is more subtle, yet still strong. Sort of like a slow-cooked pot pie, in a way. The baker would seal each individual casserole with dough, inscribe the woman's name on it, and place it in the oven after he turned it off. In the old days, women would drop off the special casserole filled with meat and potatoes at the bakery the night before laundry day (which was an all-day affair). His mother used to prepare the dish for him as a child in Alsace, France. To make the pork super tender, my mom did just as the Chinese do, she oil blanched the pork for just a few seconds in hot oil, removed and set aside before stir frying with the vegetables.” After Izard’s mother passed away a few years ago, Izard reignited her interest in Chinese cooking, which she highlights at Duck Duck Goat.Īntoine Westermann, Le Coq Rico, New York: Much More Than a Casserole One of Westermann's most personal dishes is the baeckeoffe, a casserole baked in a traditional, covered earthenware vessel made with clay from the Rhine Valley. Then we moved on to soaking and stemming the dried mushrooms. My sister and I were in charge of pulling tiger lilies in half to make the texture in the dish better. Cole over once a month and they would drink wine and make Mandarin pancakes for each of our families. Stephanie Izard, Duck Duck Goat, Girl and the Goat, and more, Chicago: Mom's Mu Shu “My mom used to have her friend Mrs. Our dishwasher mistook the tama sauce for bbq sauce, which is exactly what we were going for.” It’s topped with some spicy egg yolk based miso called tama miso, which is made by my father. Our version uses sushi rice that has been pressed and dehydrated slightly, then deep fried until golden in the fryer.
The crispy rice hash brown version at Bessou is an ode to it. I would think about that fried golden hockey puck often. Most other mornings my mother would make a traditional Japanese breakfast of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup, but these Sunday McDonald’s trips were like a little splurge for all of us-a fast food treat for us kids, and a break from the kitchen for mom.
On our way to Yaohan, we would always stop in at McDonald’s to grab breakfast. The inspiration for this dish comes from weekends with my family grocery shopping at Yaohan (what is Mitsuwa now), the huge Japanese supermarket. Maiko Kyogoku, Bessou, New York: McDonald’s Hash Browns Are Legit “On our brunch menu at Bessou, we have a side dish of crispy rice hash browns served with a spicy tama miso. Nearly every chef in the country seems to have at least one thing on the menu that came from their upbringing, which is perhaps no surprise, but a reassurance that family recipes have staying power, and grandma’s cheesecake really is good enough for a 4-star restaurant. We sent out calls for nostalgia-inspired dishes to as many chefs as we could get ahold of, and the replies rolled in for weeks. But like writers who can’t escape their life stories, chefs call on their pasts, too, sneaking childhood favorites into their highly-conceptualized tasting menu.
These are the dishes of memories, not restaurant menus rewritten every day on custom letterpress stationery, signed by the chef.
Oyster crackers tossed in ranch dressing mix. Sometimes you need a break from the craziness of this modern age, which is why we're celebrating nostalgic foods this week at .Ī big slice of bright pink cherry chip birthday cake.
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